China - Henan - Kaifeng

Once world's largest city, it is modernizing again

(photos of December 2008 and July 2009)

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Palaces and temples

Kaifeng (map, Wikipedia), in Henan Province, was the capital of China for centuries, serving seven dynasties, in particular during the first half (960-1127 AD) of the Song dynasty (960-1279 AD). It probably was the largest city in the world from 1013 to 1127 AD, with a population approaching one million (similar to the population of today's urban area).

A strategic weakness and constant threat is the proximity of the mighty Huang He (Yellow River). Kaifeng, which lies in a floodplain that is lower than the river level, has been flooded and abandoned several times in its history. Nonetheless, Kaifeng is the only city in China to still have a complete wall around its center.

The first picture shows today's relatively modest (rebuilt) Imperial Palace of Kaifeng (map). The following scrollable panorama covers the palace's forecourt and some of the surroundings.

The city boasts beautiful temples marked by exquisite craftmanship. (The next panorama spans 360 degrees.)

Kaifeng's 57-meter high Iron Pagoda (map, Wikipedia) was built in 1049 AD, not of iron, but of colorful glazed bricks that make it look like iron.

Vendors offer all manner of intriguing foods and services around town.

Millennium City Park

To celebrate the great history of Kaifeng during the Song dynasty some 1000 years ago, Kaifeng opened its grandiose Millennium City Park (map). One can spend the day reliving daily activities and sampling foods of that period. In the evening a spectacular light-and-sound show illustrates historical events with hundreds of actors, horses, camels and fantastic light effects, but photography is not allowed...

The next scrollable panorama gives an overview (almost 360 degrees wide) of the immense Millennium City Park from one of its own pagodas. The boat encounter replays a conflict over shipping fees, moderated by a venerable judge (at left in black).

Henan University

Kaifeng hosts Henan University (Wikipedia), which is split among an older campus within the city walls (map) and a new campus on the outskirts of the city (map).

The following panoramas symbolize the modernization of this inner part of China, following the development of the coastal regions during the last 30 years. The first view shows the main library and is followed by the central campus "plaza" and various buildings.

Expanding horizons

One aspect of globalization is communication in English. This can be learned by trial and error, as illustrated next in signs written in "Chinglish". The first sign asks you to "present your identification document" at a hotel desk. The second sign in a hotel room could perhaps be interpreted as "Relax, our hotel's sophisticated electronics will beam you to safety, and the hotel will be responsible for loss of checked valuables." The third sign probably warns about "slippery" conditions. It makes one wonder who checks such signs that are repeated countless times along this modern motorway (in British English) or turnpike (in US English) that runs all the way from Beijing to Guangzhou (Canton) and Hong Kong.